The genius of Leonardo da Vinci teaches that direct observation of the physical world can lead to the knowledge that flows from nature. "Natures flow" This concept I have applied to the human head of hair.

Hair history; ancient Egyptians were probably not good hair cutters or hair dressers. Possibly for matters of hygiene, they preferred the shaved head, hence their use of wigs. The Greeks and Romans, however, were natural hair cutters and hair dressers. To affirm this fact, all one has to do is study the heads of Greek and Roman sculpture. I believe these cultures' knowledge of mathematics and aesthetics as applied to the human body are clearly reflected in their art.

The dark ages, not much in the way of hair design, except for the monk cut that comes from early Jewish prophets. The renaissance, however, was a time of great design in all forms of art. It was the rekindling of the Greco-Roman aesthetic. Men like Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci, Raphael, et al., these men I beleive were great hair designers. In their paintings you can see the genius of hair design.

Post-Renaissance, if one could afford a guild barber, he or she would look very good. If not, well, ponder the hair styles of Flemish peasants found in post renaissance paintings. In the twentieth century, electricity and the mechanization of the electric clipper played a signigicant role in causing the lack of craft and art in hair design, until late twentieth century when some barbers and hair dressers learned to use the electric clipper as an artistic tool and not just a weapon to expose divets, scars, and crazy carbunkles.

Half a century later, enter Vidal Sassoon, who revolutionized hair design by using the concept of "precision hair cutting" handed down through the ages. Vidal either knew or was taught the concept of Fibonacci progression which he applied to his designs. Also enter two west coast hair cutters, Gene Schacove and Barry Knapp. They were contemporaries of Vidal Sasson. And I consider myself a contemporary and a disciple.

As a result of my study of hair design, through knowledge and application I have come up with the Julius Scissor Rules. The first rule of modern hair is that it is not just insulation or an artifact; it is an artistically malleable appendage of the body. And like Criss Angel, Julius Scissor walks on water. However, shampoo must be involved.


To understand more fully, please read the following observations:

1. Heads are not square or round; they are oval with some flat planes.

2 One cowlick grows clockwise; two cowlicks grow clockwise on left and counterclockwise on the right when viewed from the top and back of the head. Some heads of hair have more than two cowlicks; these present interesting challenges. All characteristics, including cowlicks, should be utilized as part of the design.

6. Most heads of hair have the following characteristics:
*grows clockwise from the crown
*grows from left to right, stereotypically

7. More on the hair follicle:
* it can cause hair to grow up and then back towards the scalp, as in kinky, curly or wavy hair.
* follicles can cause hair to grow from 20 to 90 degrees out from the scalp, as in Caucasian hair.
* follicles can cause hair to grow straight away from the head as in coarse straight hair, commonly found among Asian people.

8. Other characteristics have to do with hairlines front and nape. These areas can grow down from, or back into, the hairline.

9. The hairline can vary in its distance from the ear. It can grow close to the ear, or there can be space between the ear and hairline.


All of the previous are natural insights that a professional must take into consideration before he or she decides what design will compliment the individual who is to receive the art based on life.

Let's boil all this down to the basic ideas:

* Heads are not round or square, although there are flat plains that can be cut on straight lines.

* Common sense tells us curved lines on round surfaces work best for modeling surface area

* Since we can't easily cut a curved line when cutting hair, we can substitute for a curve with a series of angles.

So, when sectioning for a cut, we can apply the Julius Scissor Rules to the center of the section, and it will quickly reveal the optimal angle to part and cut. The Julius Scissor Ruler is a Euclidian triangle over a geodesic sphere; the three sides of the Euclidian triangle represent short, medium, and long cuts of hair. Always follow the growth patterns of the head of hair at hand.

Vertical lines = depth... horizantle lines = lengh.

Classic Sasoon cut, (precision) are cut blunt for weight. (Post precision cutting) A stylist can use a straight or a texture bladed scissor. Never texturize deeper than 1/3 of hair shaft lengh, is a good rule to follow.

A cutter can use the Julius Scissor technique using a razor blade or a clipper blade modifing for each tool